Quelimane

Stefania and I flew to Quelimane, the capital of Zambezia province, on Thursday. It's a world apart from Maputo. Everyone I spoke to about coming up here only had one comment about the place. 'It's really hot.' And it is. Really hot. And it's only October - December, January, February will be worse. But, I really like it here. It's very laid back, everyone cycles around, and i feel much safer (apart from near misses with bicycles going at break-neck speed). There isn't really much to do here; just 2 cinemas showing bollywood movies, an disused, old - i think the oldest in Mozambique - cathedral from the eighteenth century over-run with rats, a big mosque and not much else. It's very charming in it's own special way. There are hundreds of fruit bats that hang upside down in the trees squeaking away during the day, and flying around at dusk. There are also lots of rats - really big ones - and stray dogs.

We've been passing the time doing random shopping. I have added to my collection of capulanas (mozambican sarong things for those of you who haven't read the previous posts). I'm too embarrassed to admit how many i have. I'll definitely be buying a suitcase to take them all home in. Have also had some dresses made from the capulana's. They are so unsexy. I look like an extra from a dodgy 1970's movie. If you're lucky i might take a picture of me wearing it. Have also bought a big knife, a pillow and various bits and pieces. The knife isn't for my personal protection (i already have pepper spray), but for doing exciting things like cracking open coconuts and peeling mangoes and pineapples. So far i've only been eating lychees, kilos of them, but they don't really require knives.

There is no running water here, but i have perfected the art of showering with 3 litres of water, although i am very close to shaving all my hair off. I might get some braids when I go to the province to begin work as i can't cope with trying to keep it clean and tangle free. And i'm not going to break my promise to my mother, who thinks i might be tempted to return with dreadlocks, just in case anyone else is worried.
Managed to get what i thought was a mosquito bite on my arm. Was subsequently told it could be a spider bite. It looked like something was growing inside it, so yesterday armed with a needle and disinfectant i investigated. You'll be disappointed to know that there were no larvae inside it. I've got a nice selection of mosquito bites everywhere else. I think they are resistant to 'Peaceful Sleep' which is beyond me as i practically pass out from the fumes every time i apply it.

We're still waiting to hear when we can leave for the provinces. Slowly getting used to the pace of things in Mozambique. I'm functioning at half speed because of the heat so it makes sense that everyone else does too.